Hey! I can help you narrow down why your Asus computer screen mirroring isn’t working without doing anything risky. “Screen mirroring” can mean a few different things on Windows, and each one fails for different reasons:

• Miracast / Wireless Display (Windows + K): the TV/monitor shows up as a wireless display, and Windows tries to connect over Wi-Fi Direct.
• Chromecast / Google Cast (Chrome browser): you cast a tab or desktop through Google Chrome to a Cast device on the same network.
• Cable-based mirroring: HDMI/USB-C adapter issues can look like “mirroring not working” too, especially on Zenbook/Vivobook models with USB-C video output.

Quick questions so we don’t chase the wrong path:
1) What’s your Asus model + Windows version (Windows 11 Home/Pro)?
2) Are you trying to mirror to a smart TV, a projector, or another PC?
3) What do you see: the TV is missing from the list, or it appears but fails with something like “Couldn’t connect”?

Got it — that “appears sometimes / fails to connect other times” pattern usually points to one of these (all common on Windows 11 laptops):
• Network split: the laptop and TV aren’t truly on the same network (guest Wi-Fi / mesh nodes / 2.4 vs 5 GHz can cause weird discovery).
• Miracast handshake issue: the TV supports Miracast, but the connection fails when negotiating video/audio protection (you’ll often just get “Couldn’t connect”).
• Windows feature/driver mismatch: Wireless Display components or Wi-Fi/graphics drivers stop playing nicely after updates.

Let’s start with safe “environment checks” before touching drivers:
1) Are you using a VPN on the Asus (even a browser VPN)?
2) Is your Samsung TV on the same Wi-Fi name as the laptop (exact same SSID), or is one on “Guest”?
3) Did anything change around when it broke — Windows update, new router, new antivirus/firewall, or a TV firmware update?

That’s super helpful — a new router + split Wi-Fi bands is one of the most frequent reasons wireless display not found or cast to TV not working starts suddenly.

Two important notes (still safe, no “deep” changes):
1) Miracast doesn’t work like regular Wi-Fi casting. It uses a direct connection (Wi-Fi Direct), but discovery and setup can still be affected by your network setup and security software.
2) Some security suites block discovery/connection. They can silently block device discovery or the “handshake,” which looks exactly like “Couldn’t connect”.

Quick isolation test (no permanent changes):
• For one attempt, connect your Asus laptop to the same Wi-Fi name the TV is using (even if it’s slower). Then try Windows + K again.
• If it works on the same SSID, we’ve basically proven it’s a network segmentation issue, not a “broken” laptop.

When you try to connect, does the TV show a prompt like “Allow device to connect?” and then it fails after you accept — or does it fail without any TV prompt?

Perfect — that tells us two things:
• Discovery improves when both devices are on the same SSID (so the router setup matters).
• Connection is still intermittent, which can be drivers, TV settings, or security software interfering.

Let’s keep it safe and gather “proof” from Windows without installing anything new:
A) When you press Windows + K, do you see a message like “Your device doesn’t support Miracast” — or does it always at least try?
B) On the TV side, is “Screen Mirroring / Smart View / Miracast” mode enabled? Some TVs hide it under Connections, and if it’s off, Windows may still see it briefly but fail to complete pairing.
C) Are you trying to duplicate the display or extend the display? (Extending sometimes fails first if resolution/refresh rate negotiation is unhappy.)

Also, quick heads-up: if you’re using browser casting (Chromecast), the troubleshooting steps are different — so if you’re casting from Chrome, tell me and we’ll switch tracks.

Yes — there are a few checks that are “read-only” or easily reversible. Here’s the safest sequence I’d use on a Vivobook with Miracast not connecting:

1) Confirm Windows Wireless Display components exist
In Windows 11, Miracast relies on an optional feature called Wireless Display. If that component is missing or partially installed, you can get flaky behavior (device shows, then fails). We won’t install anything yet — just confirm whether it’s present.

2) Remove and re-add the TV (clean pairing)
If Windows saved an old pairing from before your new router, the connection can fail even though discovery works. Removing the device is safe — you can always add it back.

3) Basic interference checks
Temporarily pause the ISP security suite just long enough to test one connection attempt. If the connection suddenly works, we’ve found the cause without changing drivers.

One question before that: are you connecting through a Wi-Fi extender / mesh (like pods), or a single router only? Mesh setups can make discovery work but break the actual connection.

That’s actually a great clue. Two things can stack here:
• Mesh roaming: your laptop can hop between pods/bands, and Miracast connections don’t love mid-handshake changes.
• Power saving: on battery, Windows may put the Wi-Fi adapter into a more aggressive power-saving state, which can make wireless display unstable or slower to connect.

Safe, low-risk checks you can do next (no “tweaks” that permanently change your system):
A) Try one test with the laptop close to the same pod as the TV (reduce roaming).
B) Plug the laptop in for the test (removes battery power-saving from the equation).
C) Remove the TV under Windows Bluetooth & devices → Devices (wireless displays/docks), then attempt to connect again via Windows + K.

If you want, after those checks we can look at “compatibility evidence” (like whether Windows reports Miracast availability) — that’s still diagnostic and doesn’t install anything. And if you’re also dealing with other PC hiccups after the router switch (random freezes or sluggish file transfers), these can be related too — see: file transfer very slow, computer freezes randomly, error repeats after restart, or keeps asking to restart.